Gothenburg, or Göteburg in Swedish, is Sweden’s second-largest city. It is the birthplace of Volvo and melodic death metal. The city skillfully blends the vibes of an industrial port with those of a cultural hub.
Despite its industrial past and present, Gothenburg is one of the most eco-friendly places in Europe and the world. The city is quite convenient to navigate on foot. You can also use the excellent public transportation. The local blue trams, a signature feature of Gothenburg, can take you anywhere in the city.
Wherever you buy your ticket, you can use it for a full 90 minutes on trams, buses, trains, and ferries to the archipelago’s islands. I recommend downloading Västtrafik’s To Go app; it is convenient and helps you save money on trips.
What I love most about Gothenburg is how its cultural, historical, and business hubs are thoughtfully scattered throughout the city. Each neighborhood has its unique charm, offering a distinct experience wherever you go.
One street where the bar scene and nightlife thrive is Linnégatan. Linné Boulevard stretches from Järntorget Square to the city’s main park, Slottsskogen.
I invite you to join me for a stroll along the fancy ‘French boulevard of Gothenburg’.
Linnégatan: A Tribute to Carl von Linné and French Elegance
The street opened in May 1900, designed to emulate the elegance of a fancy French boulevard. Its name honors Carl von Linné, the renowned Swedish botanist who visited Gothenburg in 1746 during his research trip through Västergötland.
Carl von Linné visited Gothenburg in 1746 during his research trip through Västergötland. His pioneering work in naming and classifying living organisms laid the foundation for modern biological sciences and revolutionized how we understand the natural world.
A Cinematic and Culinary Gem on Linnégatan
A little hidden gem on the street is the bar-restaurant at Hagabion Art Cinema on Linnégatan 21. Set inside the beautiful Viktoriahuset, Hagabion is an independent cinema that locals absolutely love — a true gathering place for Gothenburg’s film community.
Hagabion has three screening halls of different sizes and shows films every evening, seven days a week. Its program includes regular screenings as well as special events and themed film series organized by members.
Right next to the cinema is Hagabion’s Café, formerly known as Kino — a local favorite that’s now one of Gothenburg’s most popular bars. Inside, it’s cozy and relaxed; outside, the big terrace is perfect for people-watching along Linnégatan.
The Devil on Linnégatan: Royal Scandal Unveiled
As you walk a bit further, you might notice a devil’s face mask carved into the facade of the building at Linnégatan 16-26. One of Linnégatan’s most intriguing tales involves a scandalous chapter in Swedish royal history, famously known as “The Devil on Linnégatan.”
As the story goes, in the late 19th century, King Oscar II kept a private apartment in this building, where he stayed during his visits to the nearby island of Marstrand.
Rumor has it that the king would bring women to this apartment for his private amusements. Offended by such behavior, a well-respected local who owned the building across the street decided to make a statement — he had a devil’s face carved into his facade as a lasting symbol of the king’s sins.
Imagine the king drawing the curtains one morning after a passionate night, only to find the devil’s face staring back at him. What a scene that must have been — a daily reminder of his less-than-royal behavior!
Although the original building was demolished in the 1980s, the devil’s face was preserved and incorporated into the new structure at the same address. Remember to look up as you stroll down the street — you won’t want to miss this hilarious sight!
Coffee Heaven on Linnégatan
Walk through almost any neighborhood in Gothenburg, and you’ll catch the aroma of coffee and freshly baked cinnamon buns in the air. Sweden ranks among the world’s top coffee consumers — in 2022, more than 77 million kilos of coffee were sold here.
The legendary Swedish Fika (coffee break) is never complete without a cinnamon bun. And Gothenburg is truly a paradise for coffee lovers, with countless cafés to suit every taste.
Along Linnégatan, I’d like to share my favorite coffee spots:
Bönor & Bagels, Linnégatan 48
On Linnégatan, you’ll also find a little bagel café Bönor & Bagels run by two brothers and Emmy since 1995. It’s the kind of place where you feel welcome right away, and the bagels are always fresh and full of flavor. People drop by for a quick bite, but it’s just as easy to linger a little longer – especially on a sunny day, when you can sit back and soak up the warmth. They serve great coffee and fresh juices that go really well with the bagels – simple, tasty, and exactly what you want from a neighborhood café.
Brunchoteket, Linnégatan 56
If you’re in the mood for pancakes, avocado toast, or eggs benedict in abundance, Brunchoteket is the place to be. This trendy brunch spot serves à la carte brunch every day, inspired by flavors worldwide. At Brunchoteket, the joy of eating and a great atmosphere are paramount.
With home-baked brioche bread, gluten-free options, and a menu catering to vegetarians and vegans, it’s a delight for all palates. Remember, no reservations are accepted, so it’s first-come, first-served.
Bar Kastello, Landsvägsgatan 38
As you can see from the street name, this isn’t exactly Linnégatan – but given its location, I’d still count this café-bar as part of the Linnégatan vibe. It’s right on the corner where Linnégatan meets the street Landsvägsgatan, which takes you straight into the well-known Haga district.
So, if you’re strolling down Linné towards Järntorget and keep your eyes open, you’ll spot an Espresso House on one of the corners. Just to the right of it is the turn onto Landsvägsgatan – and that’s where you’ll find Bar Kastello.
You really can’t miss it. In the warmer months, the outdoor tables are always full of people enjoying their coffee in the sun. Step inside, and you’ll find a lively, character-filled atmosphere. Locals say the owner, Jens, is warm and welcoming, making every guest feel like they’re getting a truly personal experience.
And you can actually see traces of his story in the décor – a clear connection to the US and its rock music culture. I ordered a cortado and loved it – just look at the presentation in the photo, it’s perfect!
Gerd, Linnégatan 7
A charming café, Gerd, that recently celebrated its first anniversary, has brought a fresh burst of energy to the neighborhood.
Known for its home-baked cookies, meticulously crafted bean cappuccinos from Gringo, crispy croissants from Campanile, and fluffy egg sandwiches with mayonnaise, chives, and caviar, Gerd is more than the sum of its parts.
The café’s self-built counter, island ice jersey on the wall, and pavement seating create a welcoming vibe. The friendly owners and loyal regulars contribute to a homely atmosphere that keeps visitors returning.
Lastly, I highly recommend visiting Gothenburg in the summer. You can start coming as early as mid-April and stay until the end of August, the most beautiful time to be here.
Autumn and winter bring rain, storms, and bone-chilling winds. However, in the summer, all the outdoor terraces are filled with people enjoying the charming, albeit brief, Swedish summer!
About the author:
Hello and welcome! My name is Victoria, and I’m a private tour guide in Kyiv. Since 2016, I have been offering private tours on various topics for visitors to the capital of Ukraine. I speak fluent English and love sharing stories. When not guiding, I write about Ukraine on my blog and my travel experiences and insights in Sweden and the Baltics.