Swedish summers on the West Coast may not always be hot and sunny, but that’s exactly what makes them so special.
With fresh sea air, long daylight hours, and a peaceful rhythm to life, it’s the kind of summer I truly enjoy. The temperature rarely climbs above 25°C, the sea breeze is refreshing, and the sky, even when cloudy, has a beauty of its own.
We spend many weekends and short summer breaks on Tjörn, staying at our family summer house and returning to places we love.
For this guide, I’m taking you along on one of our three-day stays — with coastal hikes, quiet villages, fika stops, kayaking, art, and plenty of time by the sea.
Hiking Vetteberget — Tjörn’s Highest Peak
Our first day was grey and overcast, but that didn’t stop us from heading out early. We decided to hike Vetteberget, the highest mountain on Tjörn. It’s only 116 meters above sea level, but don’t let that number fool you — it still gives you a real workout on the way up.
The trail is called Vettebergsleden, and it loops over the top of the mountain. The 4 km round-trip trail starts at the end of Vettebergsvägen in Aröd.
The route is marked with red crosses and runs mainly over rocky terrain. The path is pretty steep in places, with wooden stairs and rocky climbs, but completely worth it.
At the very top, the reward is stunning: a wide, open view of the sea and archipelago. On clear days, you can even spot Denmark and Skagen in the distance.
What makes Vetteberget even more fascinating is its history. During archaeological excavations in 1959, a grave containing buckles, a razor, and a 69 cm bronze sword was discovered inside the cairn.
Vetteberget also gets its name from a vette — a signal fire that formed part of an early warning system along the coast. When foreign ships approached, fires were lit one after another, sending a warning along the coastline.
After the hike, we made our way down and stopped at a charming little café and bakery called Styckens Bageri o. Speceri. I had a really good carrot cake and a cup of brewed coffee, and the place itself is just lovely inside, full of rustic charm and thoughtful details.
Visit Klädesholmen and Try Swedish Herring
Before heading home, we stopped in Klädesholmen, one of Tjörn’s most charming fishing villages and a place closely connected with Sweden’s herring tradition.
We visited Sillboden and came away with four jars of pickled herring, including a few flavors we hadn’t tried before, like tomato and curry.
The nearby Herring Museum was unfortunately already closed. Still, Klädesholmen is worth visiting even just for a walk around the village, the sea views, and a taste of this very Swedish food tradition.
Forest Trails and Caves at Sundsby Säteri
The second day started with more clouds, but the air was warm and still perfect weather for another hike. This time, we drove to Sundsby Säteri, a historic estate tucked into the forested hills on the nearby island of Mjörn, just across the water from Tjörn.
It’s a beautiful place for hiking, with peaceful woodland, rocky hills, small bays, and several trails starting near the estate. Even the drive there felt like something out of a storybook.
Sundsby Säteri has a history stretching back to the Middle Ages, but the person most closely associated with the estate is Margareta Huitfeldt, one of the most powerful women in 17th-century Bohuslän.
She lived here in the 1600s, and after her death her properties were donated to a foundation.
But we weren’t there just for the history. The real goal was hiking in the nature reserve around Sundsby Säteri.
We started on Sundsbyleden, the main blue-marked trail, before branching off onto Rådjursstigen and taking one of the steeper trails toward Solklinten.
The terrain quickly became more rugged, with rocky paths, roots, narrow passages, and forest all around us.
Solklinten rises 108 meters above sea level, and the view from the top was worth the climb. We looked out across Stigfjorden, with Tjörn and Orust stretching around us and small islands scattered across the water.
The wind picked up a little, but it only added to the atmosphere.
The Ravine and Caves at Sundsby
Then came the most adventurous part of the hike. Below Solklinten, we entered a narrow, deep ravine with steep rock walls and huge boulders wedged between them.
In a few places, we had to squeeze through narrow passages and climb around the rocks.
Beyond the ravine, the trail leads to the Sundsby caves, formed by enormous fallen boulders. One massive slab of rock rests above the others almost like a roof.
Standing underneath it felt wild and slightly unreal — easily one of the most memorable parts of our hike.
Our hike around Sundsby took about an hour and a half, including plenty of photo stops and time to explore the ravine and rock formations.
We only met a few other hikers along the way, and for most of the walk, all we could hear were birds, wind in the trees, and our own footsteps on the trail.
Back at Sundsby Säteri, we spent some time exploring the old estate buildings.
There’s a café here as well as small shops selling crafts, textiles, home decor, and local products.
I loved how the historic setting has been kept intact; it feels much more like wandering around an old Swedish country estate than visiting a typical tourist attraction.
It’s a lovely place to stop for coffee or fika after hiking the trails.
Kayaking Around Tjörn from Skärhamn
On the third day, we finally woke up to the sun. After a week of grey skies and rain, the change in light made everything feel different.
The sky was bright blue, the air fresh, and the sea sparkled. It was the perfect day for some time on the water.
We headed to Skärhamn, one of the main seaside towns on Tjörn, and rented a kayak for half a day (cost 750 SEK).
From here, we paddled out into the archipelago, passing small rocky islands and skerries scattered along the coast.
Some were large enough to stop on, while others were little more than bare rock rising from the sea
We stopped at two different islands for short fika breaks: coffee from a thermos, sandwiches we packed that morning, and time to sit in the sun and enjoy the silence.
Skärhamn harbour
Skärhamn is also home to the Nordic Watercolour Museum (Nordiska Akvarellmuseet), one of the island’s best-known cultural attractions.
Opened in 2000 and sitting right by the water, the museum hosts exhibitions by Nordic and international artists working with watercolour and related techniques.
Even if you don’t have time to visit an exhibition, the waterfront setting alone makes this part of Skärhamn worth a walk.
And look up as you walk around the harbour — you might spot Skärhamn Church smiling at you.
During the summer, a large smiling mouth is added to the church tower, a local tradition that began in 1996.
Pilane Sculpture Park
Later in the afternoon, we made our way to one of my favorite places on Tjörn — Pilane Sculpture Park.
This open-air sculpture exhibition is set in the middle of the Tjörn countryside, among rolling hills, grazing sheep, and ancient burial grounds.
Walking through Pilane feels less like visiting a traditional art museum and more like discovering contemporary sculptures scattered through the landscape.
My favorite sculpture is Anna, the monumental white head by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa.
Created for Pilane in 2016, the eight-meter-high sculpture rises above the surrounding landscape and has become one of the park’s most recognizable works.
It’s peaceful, quiet, and somehow powerful in its simplicity.
No matter how many times I see Anna, I still stop for a while — especially on a clear day, when the white sculpture looks almost unreal against the blue sky.
Pilane is especially beautiful on a sunny summer day, but wear comfortable shoes; the exhibition is spread across hilly, uneven terrain rather than paved museum paths.
Walking around Pilane feels almost meditative. Soft green hills surround you, the distant shimmer of the sea, and large-scale sculptures that seem to grow out of the earth itself. It’s a must-see if you’re ever on the island in summer.
Planning Your Trip to Tjörn
Tjörn is an easy addition to a West Coast Sweden trip, especially if you’re already visiting Gothenburg.
The island is connected to the mainland by bridge, so you don’t need to take a ferry to get here.
Having a car makes it much easier to combine places like Skärhamn, Klädesholmen, Pilane and the hiking areas in one trip.
I’d recommend spending at least three days on Tjörn.
That gives you enough time for a hike, a few coastal villages, kayaking or swimming if the weather cooperates, and a slower afternoon at Pilane without trying to squeeze everything into one day.
Why I’ll Always Come Back to Tjörn
Summer is my favorite time to visit, especially from late July into early August.
Swimming in warm, clear sea water and then lying on the rocks or the beach in around 25°C sunshine is one of my favorite ways to spend a summer day here.
It’s warm enough to enjoy for hours, but never so hot that being outside becomes exhausting.
On Tjörn, you get it all in one place. Rocky cliffs, forest trails, hidden caves, seafood shops, and art on a hillside.
I love the cool air, the sea breeze, and the 22°C days that let you hike for hours without sweating. I love the salty smell of the wind and the fact that even in July, you might need a sweater in the evening.
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About the author:
Hello and welcome! I’m Victoria, a travel writer and the creator of Best Kyiv Guide. I spent years working as a private tour guide in Kyiv, sharing the city’s history and everyday life with visitors. I now live in Sweden and write about the places I explore firsthand, sharing personal travel experiences, practical tips, and stories from Sweden, the Baltics, and across Europe.