Swedish summers on the West Coast may not always be hot and sunny, but that’s exactly what makes them so special. With fresh sea air, long daylight hours, and a peaceful rhythm to life, it’s the kind of summer I truly enjoy. The temperature rarely climbs above 25°C, the sea breeze is refreshing, and the sky, even when cloudy, has a beauty of its own.
This year, we got the chance to spend three days at my Swedish family’s summer house on Tjörn, one of the loveliest islands just north of Gothenburg. It was the perfect escape: a mix of slow mornings, coastal hikes, cozy fika breaks, and even a day out kayaking under the sun.
Tjörn is one of the larger islands on Sweden’s West Coast and is full of rocky landscapes, old fishing villages, and long summer evenings that stretch until 10:30 PM. It’s one of those places where you slow down without realizing it. Breathe deeper. Sleep better. Here’s what our little island escape looked like.
Hiking Vetteberget – Tjörn’s Highest Peak and Hidden History
Our first day was grey and overcast, but that didn’t stop us from heading out early. We decided to hike Vetteberget, the highest mountain on Tjörn. It’s only 116 meters above sea level, but don’t let that number fool you — it still gives you a real workout on the way up.
The trail is called Vettebergsleden, and it loops over the top of the mountain, starting from the small town of Fjällbacka. The path is pretty steep in places, with wooden stairs and rocky climbs, but completely worth it.
At the very top, the reward is stunning: a wide, open view of the sea and archipelago. On clear days, you can even spot Denmark and Skagen in the distance. We stood there for a while, breathing in the salty air and watching the sky shift between silver and blue.
What makes Vetteberget even more fascinating is its history. On top of the hill, there’s a Bronze Age grave, dating back around 3000 years ago. The cairn is huge — 19 meters across — and was once used for burials.
During excavations in the 1950s, archaeologists found a 69 cm bronze sword, buckles, and even a razor inside. There’s also a signal point here from the Viking age, called a vette. These were early warning beacons; if enemy ships were spotted, a fire would be lit and the message would travel up the coast like a chain reaction.
After the hike, we made our way down and stopped at a charming little café and bakery called Styckens Bageri o. Speceri. I had a really good carrot cake and a cup of brewed coffee, and the place itself is just lovely inside, full of rustic charm and thoughtful details.
Before heading home, we also stopped by the Sillboden shop in Klädesholmen, a village famous for producing Sweden’s pickled herring. We picked up four jars — including some flavors we hadn’t tried before, like tomato and curry. The nearby Herring Museum was unfortunately closed by the time we got there. Klädesholmen’s herring tradition goes back centuries, and it’s still one of the main producers in Sweden today.
Forest Trails and Caves at Sundsby Säteri
The second day started with more clouds, but the air was warm and still perfect weather for another hike. This time, we drove to Sundsby Säteri, a historic estate tucked into the forested hills on the nearby island of Mjörn, just across the water from Tjörn. The area is peaceful and green, surrounded by small bays and rocky cliffs. Even the drive there felt like something out of a storybook.
The Sundsby manor dates back to the 1600s and was once owned by Margareta Huitfeldt, a noblewoman who later donated the estate to a foundation that still exists today. Walking around the grounds, it’s easy to imagine what life might have looked like centuries ago. According to records, the family had six black oak chairs — a big deal at the time, considering even Stockholm Castle only had twelve!
But we weren’t there just for the history. The real goal was the Sundsbyleden trail, a forest hike that leads through dramatic ravines, giant boulders, and panoramic viewpoints. The first part of the path is wide and well-marked, but soon you get the option to follow some steeper side trails. We took one of them — Rådjursstigen, which led us up toward Solklinten, the highest point in the area at 108 meters.
From the top, we had another spectacular view — this time looking out over Stigfjorden, the waterway between Tjörn and Orust. Below us, a thick forest stretched toward the sea, broken up by small inlets and fishing boats. The wind picked up a little, but it only added to the atmosphere.
Then came the real adventure. Deep in the woods, we entered a narrow ravine with massive rocks wedged between the cliffs. In a couple of places, the stones created natural caves — some so big you could stand inside. One of them had a giant slab of stone that had fallen into place just like a roof. It felt wild and ancient, like a hidden place that hadn’t changed for thousands of years.
The entire hike took us one and a half hours, with plenty of photo stops and time to explore the rock formations. It wasn’t crowded either, just a few other hikers here and there, and mostly the sound of birds, wind, and our footsteps on the trail.
Back near the manor, there is also a cozy cafe and small shops where you can browse handmade crafts, interior decor, and local delicacies. It’s not your usual tourist stop: more like a mix of art gallery and country store, tucked inside a building that’s been standing for centuries. Worth a look if you’re there.
Kayaking, sunshine, and a visit to Pilane Sculpture Park
On the third day, we finally woke up to the sun. After a week of grey skies and rain, the change in light made everything feel different. The sky was bright blue, the air fresh, and the sea sparkled. It was the perfect day for some time on the water.
We rented a kayak for a half-day (750 SEK) and set off to explore the coast from a new perspective. There’s something so calming about gliding across the water, with nothing but the sound of your paddle and the occasional seagull. The sea around Tjörn is full of small rocky islands, some big enough to land on, others barely more than a rock with a few tufts of grass.
We stopped at two different islands for short fika breaks: coffee from a thermos, sandwiches we packed that morning, and time to just sit in the sun and enjoy the silence. The water was still a bit too chilly for a swim, but the warmth of the sun on our faces more than made up for it. Next time, I hope we’ll get to swim too.
Pilane Sculpture Park on Tjörn
Later in the afternoon, we made our way to one of my favorite places on Tjörn — Pilane Sculpture Park. This open-air art exhibition is unlike anything else. Set on a grassy hilltop surrounded by grazing sheep and ancient burial grounds, the park combines nature, history, and modern art in a truly special way.
My favorite sculpture is called Anna — a serene white head that rises out of the landscape like a dream, created by the famous Catalan visual artist, sculptor, designer, and engraver Jaume Plensa in 2016.
It’s so peaceful, so quiet, and somehow powerful in its simplicity. But this year, there was also a new installation that caught my attention — I won’t spoil it here, but I’ve added a few photos so you can see the beauty of the place yourself.
Walking around Pilane feels almost meditative. Soft green hills surround you, the distant shimmer of the sea, and large-scale sculptures that seem to grow out of the earth itself. It’s a must-see if you’re ever on the island in summer.
Why I’ll Always Come Back to Tjörn
There’s something special about Sweden’s West Coast — the rawness of the landscape, the quiet strength of the sea, and the way the light lingers late into the evening. On Tjörn, you get it all in one place. Rocky cliffs, forest trails, hidden caves, seafood shops, and art on a hillside.
I love the cool air, the sea breeze, and the 22°C days that let you hike for hours without sweating. I love the salty smell of the wind and the fact that even in July, you might need a sweater in the evening.
This short trip gave us a little bit of everything — nature, history, food, art, and above all, peace. It reminded me how rich and beautiful the West Coast can be, even when the sun only shows up once.
And I know we’ll be back again.
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About the author:
Hello and welcome! My name is Victoria, and I’m a private tour guide in Kyiv. Since 2016, I have been offering private tours on various topics for visitors to the capital of Ukraine. I speak fluent English and love sharing stories. When not guiding, I write about Ukraine on my blog and my travel experiences and insights in Sweden and the Baltics.